Originally from Central Asia, where it has been cultivated for over 8,000 years, hemp has more than one trick up its sleeve. Easy to grow, this plant requires little water and no pesticides, so that it can live almost anywhere … France is the second producing country after China. In the past, hemp was used to make fabric, much more resistant than cotton. Today, it is mainly used in agriculture, in the fields, to renew plots and purify the land between two crops and it is also a very popular raw material in the paper industry.

One plant, two assets

From mechanically cold pressed hemp seeds, an oil is extracted, which has both food and cosmetic properties. In food, it is used raw to enhance salads and help fight against cardiovascular diseases. In cosmetics, it can be used alone, or is part of a ready-to-use formula.

Hemp can also be used as an extract, called cannabidiol or CBD. It is obtained, for the moment, from a mixture of the seeds and stems of hemp. But last November, the Court of Justice of the European Union ruled illegal the ban in France on the marketing of cannabidiol (CBD). Thus, the flower (or head), which contains the highest concentration of CBD in the plant, could soon also be used in cosmetics in France.

To transform the plant into an asset, the suppliers each have their own recipe. On the other hand, French legislation requires that CBD-based products contain no trace of THC, the famous psychotropic molecule. “This is why THC is separated from other molecules and then removed by a chromatography technique”, explains Alison Malamoud, doctor of pharmacy. The CBD extract is then transformed into a powder which can then be incorporated into the care.

Hemp oil, nourishing

Used for a long time in cosmetics, rich in essential fatty acids, mainly omega 3 and 6, this natural vegetable oil participates in the nutrition of the skin, and softens it thanks to its emollient effect. The linoleic acid it contains helps to limit the insensible loss of water. It is appreciated for its dry finish. It also has antioxidant and soothing properties, as it contains a low dose of cannabinoid.

CBD, soothing

This ingredient has been the subject of numerous scientific studies, especially in skin prone to eczema or atopic dermatitis. It has two actions: an anti-inflammatory effect and a sebum-regulating action. CBD is recommended for sensitive skin, redness, because it soothes and calms them. It also regulates the level of sebum, which makes it a good ally for oily skin, but also for people who want a perfect skin texture in times of stress or during menstruation.

Also used in some massage oils (in this case CBD isolate which is infused into oils), it relieves localized pain, calms osteoarthritis or soothes tendonitis. CBD can also be ingested to reduce stress and promote sleep.

“Avocado has been revived since Kim Kardashian praised it in 2016 with the hashtag #avocado on Instagram,” reveals Mathias Landier, Kiehl’s skincare ambassador. Symbol of healthy food, originally from Mexico and well known to the Aztecs, it is now cultivated in many other countries such as the Dominican Republic, Peru and Indonesia. In cosmetics, its flesh and oil are used for their ultra-nourishing properties. Avocado oil is obtained from the pulp, cold pressed, hence its naturally green color, because the kernel contains little fat.

In video: make yourself a hydrating avocado mask

>> To know: Avocado is an ingredient to use in moderation because it is a fruit that is not ecological. Indeed, its carbon footprint is heavy and its cultivation requires very high water consumption: 1000 liters for 1 kg of avocados! The only reason why it should not be abused. To consume responsibly, we favor varieties that grow in Europe, such as fuerte (very green, pear-shaped) resistant to temperature variations. It is cultivated in Spain, Greece and, more recently, Corsica.

The oil hydrates deeply, the flesh on the surface

Oil and meatlawyer can be combined in formulas for even more intense action. “The oil deeply hydrates, the pulp on the surface”, explains the expert. Avocado is a fruit packed with virtues: vitamins A, C and E give it antioxidant properties. It thus helps to protect the skin against free radicals, and therefore to fight against the signs of aging.

Thanks to its moisturizing properties, avocado oil limits water loss (perspiration, etc.) and strengthens the skin’s barrier function, in order to better protect the face and body from external aggressions such as wind, UV rays or cold in winter. It can also be applied to the hands, to protect them against chapping. But in summer, it has soothing properties that allow it to be used after exposure to the sun. It is also able to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, thus helping to fight against skin aging.

Avocado oil is also effective in fighting stretch marks, moisturizing the eye area, or fighting dark circles and puffiness. It even promotes healing and restores suppleness to dry hair. It is therefore found in hair care, body products or face and eye contour formulas.